beach

California is a big state and when I visited in the past I spent most of my time in LA or South or the San Francisco area. A couple weeks ago though I traveled with some friends from Santa Monica to the Central Coast, specifically Avila Beach (closest big city would be San Luis Obispo which isn’t really BIG compared to California standards). This was my first time to the Central Coast and I had no idea what to expect–except for it being somewhat coastal.

About 3 hours North of LA on “the 5 (I-5 for us non-Californians)” and about 4 hrs South of San Fran on the 5, the Central Coast is a mixture of famous sights, small beach towns and wineries that rival the more known Napa Valley. I only had 3 days in this area and I wanted to make the most of it—and of course, I needed more time.

Hearst Castle

Maybe the most famous of the sights on the Central Coast and all of California is the Hearst Castle named for the newspaper tycoon William Randolph Hearst who died in 1951. Now a state park the Castle is steeped in history. In its heyday it was supposed to be a “bungalow” for Hearst, but soon got a bit bigger and was visited by the most famous of the time (Lindbergh, Cary Grant, various Presidents). The main house is over 60,000 sqft and has 56 bedrooms and 61 bathrooms. Full of antiques and rare books purchased personally by Hearst, this spot has a constant stream of tourists throughout the year.

If you are like me, famous landmarks are worth a visit, but when the beach is calling—I make it a short visit because, well, the beach is calling.

If you’ve heard of Monterey or Big Sur you have heard of the Central Coast, but if you have heard of Avila Beach then you have heard of the REAL Central Coast. A sleepy beach town popular with fisherman put Avila on the map, but the subsequent building boom and desire to live semi-affordably (to California standards anyway) is what made Avila what it is today: a coffee drinking, dog walking, beach strolling, bike riding, fishing town. To say this town is yuppie would be an understatement–but it is Cali and in comparison to some California towns, Avila is a watered down yuppie and a town I could totally see myself living in. With a main street of tee-shirt and flip flop shops, a general market, Mr. Rick’s Sports bar, the very crowded Joe Mamma Coffee (try the hemp milk creamer) and even a couple small wineries, it takes 6 minutes to walk the “strip” before you are hugging the coastline on your run, walk or bike ride on the way to the famous fishing pier to watch your dinner get caught, buy that fresh caught dinner and walk right up to (if you dare) napping Sea Lions on the dock.

Avila Beach

Avila at sunset

up-close and personal with a hungry pelican on the fishing pier

Tide Pools
About a 30 minute drive from Avila are the Montana de Oro State Park and Tide Pools. Here the coastline is comprised of slippery rock (yeah, I fell on my a*s), snails, crabs, sea anemones, shells and steep sand dunes that can be slid down via sled, cardboard box or the seat of your pants (I saw all three). Like the rest of California (even in the summer), the water is powerful and very cold so if the tide is not out it could be a dangerous, cold meander through these tide pools. I went when the tide was nearly out and bonded quite nicely with a turquoise sea anemone. Did you know if you gently touch one it wraps around your finger and tries to suction you to death? It is a cool feeling. Yeah, and messing with that anemone is probably why I fell.

Trail down to the tide pools

me at the tide pools

overlooking the coastline tide pools and sand dunes

Dive Bars–for Wine
As mentioned, wine from the Central Coast rivals Napa Valley and Sonoma and wineries and vineyards are dotted along the coast at every exit. Many have gorgeous views and picturesque grounds like at this place:

But sadly, sometimes the wine suffers and the view turns out to be the best thing about the winery. If you are a true wine-person, this can be frustrating (if you are like me and can barely tell a Pinot from a Merlot it is not as upsetting) especially when you are in the Central Coast and have gorgeous views anyway. Recently an industrial area of blue and government gray buildings in the town of Lompoc (pronounced “Lom-Poke”) behind the Home Depot has become a popular destination for wine tastings and because the area is, ahem, not so picturesque (and it probably doesn’t help that the Home Depot lumber department is in ear shot) the area was affectionately coined as the “Wine Ghetto.”

Most likely overlooked, unless you knew better, this parking lot of single-story metal buildings has become the place to go if you want good wine. Unlike most wineries where you have your tasting, roam the grounds and then responsibly drive to the next vineyard–the Ghetto is a one-stop wine tasting shop with the wineries situated like stores in a cheap strip mall– but, the wine is NOT cheap tasting! Park once–taste all day– but get a car service, please.

One of my favorite “Ghetto” wineries was the Flying Goat. The husband and wife owners were passionate about their wine, had soil samples that the grapes grew from and a very nice 13 year old chocolate lab. Plus– the lady knew all about Jersey. Represent East Coast!

(picture courtesy of centralcoastuncorked.blogspot.com)

My old Mac Air was having some battery and storage space issues–understandable for such an old, out of date piece of technology and really I had no choice but to replace it with a brand new shiny Mac Air. Was this a need? No–it was a want and while I haven’t been writing as much lately as I would like (summer, moving, the beach, what-not)… writing was my justification for getting a new one and I’m happy to say I’m back into the swing of things–including my newest off-shoot of this site “coming soon” (Three words: Strong Sweaty Traveler).

Anyway– the same day that I ordered my new Air I spent a couple of hours leisurely roaming around downtown Point Pleasant. The quaint shops make this beach town so great– I really love the beach scene and can’t believe that the Jersey Shore show is filmed in the next town over. Don’t get me started, but that show— I detest it– it gives the real Shore such a bad name.

The beach stores and the local True Value are normally the stores I browse but today, for some reason, I glanced towards the antique store across from the coffee shop. In my college days I thought shopping at antique stores was chic–but as I got older (and learned more about bed bugs and how they can live in ANYTHING) I steered clear, they just became too… shabby. But today something caught my eye. Through the window next to the the old fashioned washboard and and just behind the slightly rusted ancient tin sign of a woman advertising Coca-Cola was a typewriter. It wasn’t the kind of typewriter I used in my senior year keyboarding with Ms. McCarroll who sashayed her 60+ year old stomach around the classroom in her nauseating half shirts while we all typed out how that brown dog jumped over the lazy fox… or fox over dog– I forget.

Senior Year Ms. McCarroll typewriter

This was the kind from the “olden” days– from the 40′s (but oddly, similar to the one my grandmother’s doctor’s receptionist still uses in teeny tiny Omak, Washington).

The porcelin keys were rounded, off-white and naturally, I’m guessing, indented for ideal placement of the finger pads– but likely even more indented from years of use. The perfect fit of my fingers on the a s d f & j k l ; keys felt incredible, and I realize it may seem strange to some that I would use the adjective incredible to describe this feeling— but it was.
As far as I could tell, the keys didn’t stick when pressed and after I removed the “Do Not Touch” sign off of the ribbon area, I tested the return function and it worked! There was even ribbon and the body of the machine was in tact except for inches of dust accumulated in the crevices.

As a writer I have had my eye on one of these “real” typewriters for years, but the price was always unjustifiable to me considering it would be used only for decoration. On eBay I’ve seen similar models that sold for well over $300 and some as high as $700 so I was skeptical that this one had a price tag of just $37. After replacing the “Do Not Touch” tag I decided to walk around the store to see what else was for sale while the clerk helped an elderly woman compare Cupie dolls. I saw an old rotary pay phone and an even older record player– but both were priced at what I figured was reasonable but still much less than I thought the typewriter should have been priced.

Cupie or Kewpie doll

After the elderly woman bought her collection of Cupies, I inquired about the typewriter, trying to hide my amazement that it was priced so low. It was a Royal Deluxe from the 40′s and it worked with ribbon the clerk picked up at Staples (Who knew, turns out they still make ribbon for these old typewriter models).

Apparently this antique store bought out an estate sale and $37 was what they thought was a fair price for this Royal since it didn’t have a case. Of course, I bought it.

Once home I showed it off to anyone who’d care (my husband still doesn’t really get why I bought this huge paperweight) and I also googled the hell out of it. Not only did I see the SAME model in similar shape for sale in the $500′s, I learned that Ernest Hemingway used this same model, and if that isn’t purchase validation I don’t know what is!

I may not be a writer of Hemingway’s stature and even while I write this post on my fancy-shmancy top of the line new Air, my “olden days” typewriter makes me feel happy to the core whenever I glance over and see it sitting on my desk.

Dear Maui,

Let me start by saying how sorry I am. For what you may ask? Well, I forgot how much I love you. I took you for granted while growing up on the West Coast. You were so close in proximity to me. I visited often and while I deeply enjoyed each visit, after moving to the East Coast I quickly threw you aside for new vacation spots such as the Caribbean and the Bahamas. They are similar to you–kind people, warm weather and lots of beach, but one thing they have going for them that you don’t is just a short flight–three to four hours.

How quickly I pushed you aside for convenient air travel.

After arriving in April for a mandatory trip that was related to my husband’s job (and even with the ridiculous layovers that were scheduled [not your fault]), all of my hesitations about the distance and the “comfortably restless” feeling I had for you that left me wanting to explore new places vanished as soon as I stepped into your open air airport and smelled the sweet air as it gently blew against my face. I remembered again how you were my first tropical love; my true tropical love.

This last visit may have been my best (well, tied maybe with the Spring Break trip my friend Jean and I took out there). The weather was perfect (you do have to admit that January/February are a bit iffy these days what with global warming or what not) and since my husband and I had both visited multiple times, we didn’t feel the need to rush and do tourist activities everyday leaving us so much time to just enjoy and unwind. At home (on the East Coast), people marvel at my visits to Hawaii. To them, Hawaii is some far off land, maybe as to how the Caymen Islands may seem to someone in Oregon. A far away, exotic paradise.
In the past I brushed off the “ooohs and ahhhhs” uttered at my Hawaii trips (again, I am sorry–I lost my head) and commented “Yes, it is nice.” Nice? Ugh, I am despicable.

While this apology letter need not go into any detail on the many attributes you offer your visitors–because I see them in my minds eye whenever I want–I want others to not make the same mistake I have made; I don’t want anyone to EVER forget how amazing you are.

So, with that said–I am listing some must-do and sees for anyone visiting.

See you soon,
Diana

ps: the other Hawaiian islands are amazing too. But Maui, you know I love you best.

WHAT ONE MUST DO & MUST SEE IN MAUI

1. Relax. You are here.

2. Lounge. I recommend staying in the Kaanapali area (although Kihei [pronounced 'kee-hay'] is another great area, so don’t count it out especially if you get a deal at the Grand Wailea, the fanciest hotel on the island). In Kaanapali the views of the famous Black Rock are best seen from the Sheraton. It is an older hotel, but kept up nicely and the views, pool area, bars and staff are exceptional. Snorkel right from the beach or do a resort dive and get a taste of the deep. Shopping is also just a short walk away on the beach path at Whalers Village. See # 5 on this list.

view of Black Rock and some of the Sheraton grounds

3. Go to a Luau. Lahaina, the original capital of Hawaii, is a small surf town with all of the tourist shops but with much more charm than most touristy towns. Many of the hotels on Maui offer a Luau but the most famous (and fun) is the Old Lahaina Luau but make reservations ahead of time!
And go early to town to shop around and have a pre-Luau drink at Lahaina Grill

Luau

4. Learn to Surf, or Stand Up Paddle
BECOME a true Hawaiian visitor and do like the locals do- Surf or do my new favorite sport: SUP (Stand Up Paddle).
Lessons are offered all over the island. Check with your hotel for recommendations or for a sure fire GOOD TIME try these guys out. Get on the water.

5. Shop. There is no shortage of retail shops and flea markets all over the island where you can find Hawaiian trinkets and high end stores within steps of each other. Whalers Village is a great combo of t-shirt shops, surf shops and jewelry stores–with the odd shaved ice place thrown in here and there. If the shops aren’t enough of a draw for you, go at least for the Hula Grill where you can dine with your feet in the sand overlooking the blue water and maybe a whale in the Pacific.

6. Take an epic drive. I recently did a post in my series titled See This, Not That where I spoke of a drive around the island (The Road to Kahakuloa) that rivals the famous Road to Hana drive. If this is your first trip to Maui please do both. I cannot choose one for you. Read my post and decide. But I will say, the Road to Hana is more famous. Full of the endless narrow, windy roads that end up at the gravesite of Charles Lindbergh (I know that sounds morbid, but it is an awesome drive.)
Three words: Black. Sand. Beach.
BUT–on the Road to Kahakuloa you see this:

And this:

7. See a Volcano. Drive to the top to watch the sunrise (bring a jacket–the temps may be in the 70′s at sea level but are freezing at the top) and hike around or later, get a tour that takes you to the top and then supplies all you need to mountain bike down. Either way, looking into the crater and knowing that this is an active (although quiet as of late) volcano is awesome. Another great thing— animals considered endangered that are found no where else on the planet are protected here.

the Crater

8. Repeat #1.

Trip Advisor, an essential website for any traveler regardless of your destination, just put out their “Top 25″ list for different regions of the World listing the locations where people say they want to go.

There are some obvious ones like Banff. Banff was voted #1 for Canada and if you haven’t been to Banff stop everything (after you finish reading this post) and book a trip there. Soon. Winter or summer–it doesn’t matter. There were also some interesting choices… Machu Picchu got #3 on the World list below Cape Town and Sydney? Hmmm, yeah… I’m not sure.

Me and Banff

Of course, I have an opinion on all of the rankings, but thats the point — opinon is what generated this survey. Here I choose to focus on the United States top 25 and rate them based on MY opinion.

Trip Advisor’s #1: New York City
Diana’s #1: New York City

NYC over the Hudson

No argument here. I am biased and if you don’t know of my love of this city please refer to my archives or at seenyc.com, the NYC travel site I write for. I love this city. Anything you want to do, want to see, want to eat, want to BE– NYC is the place. THE place.

Trip Advisor #2: Honolulu, Hawaii
Trip Advisor #3: San Francisco
Trip Advisor #4 Las Vegas
Trip Advisor #5 Lahaina, Hawaii (Maui)

Maui

Spoiler alert: Hawaii appears often in this top 25 list, but personally I would have put Lahaina at #2 behind NYC. Honolulu is nice, but the island of Maui offers less tourism and just as much to do.

I’d also put San Fran above Honolulu. What a fab city SF is and if you catch it on a sunny day as I did this past April, you’d be hard pressed finding another city that can beat the vibe SF gives.

Las Vegas. Well, for me, Vegas would be near the end of the list–if it even made the list. I do think everyone needs to see Vegas once, but there are so many cities in this country that deserve a much more serious look than Vegas.

Trip Advisor #6 Kona, HI
Trip Advisor #7 New Orleans
Trip Advisor # 8 San Diego, CA
Trip Advisor #9 Sedona

Wait — stop right there. I am ok with New Orleans being on the list and even in the top 10, and San Diego–I LOVE the La Jolla neighborhood, but for Sedona to rank lower… I’m not sure about that. Maybe its because I recently spent some time in Sedona and perhaps the beauty still has me hypnotized, but this eccentric town with the captivating scenery is easily in my top 5.

Sedona, AZ

Trip Advisor #10 Seattle
Trip Advisor #11 Anchorage, AK
Trip Advisor #12 Chicago
Trip Advisor #13 Boston

Being a Seattle native I can appreciate the beautiful mountains, the surrounding water and abundant supply of fleece jackets, but I still wonder: “Why do people vacation in Seattle?” The weather is TOO unpredictable and the sights to see can be done in a weekend. IF you have a desire to go to the Seattle area, stay for an afternoon and then head to Vancouver, BC. Trust me.

I am ok with the other 3 being in the top 25. Boston though—should be much higher. The history and walkability of the town is addicting.

Trip Advisor #14 Estes Park, CO
Trip Advisor #15 Washington DC
Trip Advisor #16 Poipu, HI (see—I told you Hawaii was on here a lot)
Trip Advisor #17 Orlando, FL

As we get to the bottom half of the list I think the locations are reaching to be part of the top 25 (I am surprised Portland, Or; Santa Cruz, Ca or Boise, Idaho aren’t on the list).

Colorado is great regardless of the city and I think I would have chosen Boulder for the top 25, but Estes Park is only an hour away and with 345+ sunny days a year how can you NOT want to live visit there? Ski, hike, shop, swim. Colorado is like Seattle, but less natural water and MUCH more sun.

Washington DC is great. History is #1 here but if you escape to the Georgetown area you really get a taste of DC–and in a good way.

Lincoln Memorial in DC

Orlando.
Apparently the top 25 for Trip Advisor was voted on by parents. Yes, Orlando is fun and I say that as a non-parent. But it is all Disney and while Disney is fun, Orlando IS Disney and that only goes so far.

Trip Advisor # 18 Big Sur, CA
Trip Advisor #19 Bar Harbor, Maine
Trip Advisor #20 Carmel, CA
Trip Advisor #21 Destin, FL

Two in California and Destin is a great getaway. My brother and sister-in-law in Dallas love the driving distance and white sand beaches–so I can see why Destin made the list. And Maine is neat. Just neat. Bar Harbor has been a top vacation spot since the 19th century.

Trip Advisor #22 Savannah, GA
Trip Advisor #23 Gatlinburg, TN
Trip Advisor #24 Miami Beach, FL
Trip Advisor #25 Myrtle Beach, SC

I was happy to see the South represented in the top 25. Savannah and Gatlinburg are NOT to be missed. Here you can get a taste of the real south. Grits anyone?
Miami Beach and Myrtle Beach are known more for their name than the place/experiences, but nonetheless, they do belong in the top 25. You can’t really go wrong with any city that has “beach” in the name.

Whether you agree or not with my comments, below is my ranking of the top 25 (using only cities on Trip Advisor’s top 25).
Let it be known that there are some major cities missing that would be on my Top 25–some I mentioned above but others are Austin, TX, Missoula, MT, Princeton, NJ and Key West.

Diana’s Top 25
1. New York City
2. Lahaina, HI
3. San Francisco
4. Sedona, AZ
5. New Orleans, LA

6. Boston, MA
7. Chicago, IL
8. San Diego, CA
9. Washington DC
10. Honolulu, HI

11. Savannah, GA
12. Estes Park, CO
13. Poipu, HI
14. Kona, HI
15. Big Sur, CA

16. Anchorage, AK
17. Bar Harbor, Maine
18. Destin, FL
19. Carmel, CA
20. Gatlinburg, TN

21. Miami Beach, FL
22. Myrtle Beach, SC
23. Seattle, WA
24. Orlando, FL
25. Las Vegas, NV

Tell me — what are your top cities in the US? Where am I wrong? Where am I right?

Basking in the glow of my first (and successful) mechanical bull ride while in Scottsdale last week I got to thinking about the last two months of my life and the non-stop travel that occurred during that time. New Zealand, Hawaii, Seattle and Arizona kept me very busy for both work and play. The fun times I had at the Saddle Ranch and the bull rides got me thinking of the other options I had that night instead of hitting the bull… and that got me thinking that it is time for another installment of SEE THIS, NOT THAT!

Most places have more than one restaurant/theatre/tourist site/building/event for travelers to choose from when visiting a new place, but the challenge is to find WHICH choice will end up being the best for your tight schedule and/or tight budget. And as we all know, the most popular choice isn’t always the best choice.

So — after the picture of me OWNING the bull (albeit not the most flattering picture of me) check out the latest installment of SEE THIS NOT THAT!

See This: The Road to Kahakuloa
Not That: Road to Hana

The Road to Hana on the island of Maui in Hawaii is gorgeous and very popular with both tour groups and individuals and of course you will enjoy the drive, the black sand beaches, waterfalls and ocean views that will keep you stopping and snapping pictures all day. But, lets be serious…we all want our friends to enjoy hearing the retelling of our adventures as much as we enjoy telling it and unless you only talk to people that have already been to Maui and who have no doubt already SEEN the road to Hana, your pictures and stories will only be given a polite “that is nice” at best.

So instead of doing the same old trip that everyone does, try the lesser known “road” that is similar to the Road to Hana, but much less traveled.

The Road to Kahakuloa

Traveling along Highway 340 on the West Coast of Maui is incredibly scenic, narrow–and a little scary, so go slow.

Narrow road

Pass by blowholes and spot whales congregating in the distance, crystal clear pools, rocky and sandy beaches and virtually no civilization (especially gas stations, so make sure your tank is full) on extremely curvy, narrow roads. Expect the random chicken or cow as your fellow commuter and descend the mountains into the valley and end up in Kahakuloa Village.

one of the scenic beaches on the road

Approach this drive leisurely and stop along the way for fresh pineapple or take a dip in the warm waters before heading on to the next pineapple stand or beach.

one of many roadside pineapple stands

Surfing beach

The road, incredibly, hugs the ocean and mountain at the same time and offers views from all sides.
My favorite sight on the drive, aside from the Kaukini Gallery where over 100 local artists feature their work for reasonable prices, is Kahakuloa Head, a 600+’ mountain shooting out of the ocean. You can climb it, but be careful. This ancient site, familiar ground of Kings from Maui’s past, is very steep and rugged.

Gorgeous Kahakuloa Head

Regardless of which drive you choose just remember: you are in Maui– so enjoy every palm tree, pineapple/mango drink, fresh seafood and don’t forget the suntan lotion!